Restaurant Review: A rare find at Queen’s Park

It’s official — I owe the kitchen at No 10 Hotel an apology.

No, it’s not an embarrassing dining out story or a major dinner table faux pas — it’s just for doubting them.

As a great lover of ogling menus days before a meal, your humble reviewer wandered on to the new boutique hotel’s website and scoffed at the first item on the list.

Deconstructed cullen skink? You’re having a laugh, I thought — and said, at length. How do you decontruct a soup?

Well...elegantly, in No 10’s case — but more on that later.

Converted from two Victorian townhouses on the edge of Queen’s Park, this four star hotel opened in autumn last year — and it’s a wonder more people aren’t raving about it just yet.

For the outside, its biggest boast is a picturesque setting; the kind of leafy, tree-laden avenue Glasgow is occasionally blessed with.

Inside, it has the makings of a cool and contemporary spot; the bar serving up pints of trendy West beer, exposed brick walls and elegant table settings.

The other half and I arrived looking slightly less than luxurious, what with it being the stormiest night of the summer (ha) so far — but the staff were just as friendly and welcoming. Stuffy service this wasn’t, and it was all the better for it.

That cullen skink dish was a must to start. What arrived was a delicately plated — yet plentiful — smoked haddock croquette dish, paired with melt-in-the-mouth fondant potatoes, leek and onion puree and an array of herby greenery.

It was no soup — it was better, elevating the ingredients of the traditional cullen skink into a beautiful thing, as camera-ready as it was delicious.

Good old Masterchef may have a problem with the word ‘decontructed’, but in this case, I’ll allow it.

The OH raved about his roast beetroot and goat’s cheese tart; a light, crisp filo basket stuffed with ample creamy cheese and earthy veg. It was the most he’d enjoyed beetroot for a while — and coming from a steak and chips man, that’s high praise.

Speaking of, he couldn’t quite break with tradition when it came to mains. The result was a very good, perfectly pink chargrilled fillet, amply supplied with roasted mushroom, tomato and wonderful chips; the rustic, skin on, burn your mouth they’re so fresh kind.

On my side, skin on chicken breast with a rich, gravy-like whisky mustard jus was a return to traditional hotel fare, but a layered haggis potato cake kicked it up a considerable notch; deliciously spicy haggis crumbled between thin, butter soft slices of potato. It’s one I’ll be attempting at home.

Still waiting for the sun to come out beyond the doors of No 10, we shared an oozing chocolate fondant; a traditional dessert and a chocaholic’s dream come true, paired nicely with tablet ice cream and a shortbread round.

Glasgow has come over all foodie recently — and if this is the result, then please, spread the word to other city hotels.

I might still suggest changing the name of that signature starter, No 10 — but then again, it must be nice to prove people like me wrong.

Deconstructed cullen skink - £6.75

Roast beetroot and goat’s cheese filo basket - £5.95

Skin-on chicken breast, layered haggis potato cake - £12.95

Chargrilled 8oz beef fillet, roasted flat cap mushroom, plum tomato, rocket and hand cut chips - £26.00

Hot chocolate fondant, tablet ice cream, shortbread and chocolatesauce -£4.95

Total: £56.60

No 10 Hotel

Queen’s Drive

G42 8BS

Tel: 0141 424 0160