Destination Dining: I had a spectacular dinner on the opening night of Scotland's best new restaurant

We were the first to arrive on the opening night at Loma, housed within Cameron House Hotel, so had a chance to fully appreciate the dining room with its plush, comfy banquettes and key tables facing out towards the view across Loch Lomond. The setting was transformed in lightning speed as the restaurant and kitchen were remodelled with a sense of purpose by Glasgow Michelin star chef Graeme Cheevers: “Our goal is to offer guests an unforgettable dining experience—one that combines precision, creativity, and warm Scottish hospitality” he says, and he means it.

Graeme is backed by some new recruits and his existing brigade who have made One Michelin Star rated Unalome in Kelvingrove a success. For his next trick, it’s back to a venue that represents a pivotal moment in his career. At 15, Graeme enrolled in catering college, adding to his studies with part-time roles in local restaurants. His dedication and talent took him on a rapid progression through various esteemed kitchens, including The Peat Inn under Geoffrey Smeddle.

He joined Michelin-starred chef Martin Wishart’s Loch Lomond restaurant, initially as a commis chef. Young, talented and ambitious, Graeme was appointed head chef within two years, successfully retaining the restaurant's Michelin star for five consecutive years. He built a reputation on dishes created with the best of Scotland’s larder: roe deer from the Borders, Orkney scallops, local langoustines and lobster. Now he returns in his own right to shape a new culinary story with Loma.

A peek in their wine cellar reveals an impressive start to the collection and plenty of space for that to grow. A look into the kitchen and there’s a chef’s table crafted into an alcove that gives you a front row seat for service. I would book here on my next visit.

From the start, the attention to detail you can expect during an unhurried tasting menu or a la carte meal at Loma is clear. The service is friendly and highly organised. This is a ballet of plates and glassware, bringing together some of the best strands of Scottish hospitality. Loch Lomond is one of the country’s greatest attractions and it deserves a restaurant operating at a high level to match.

Our meal starts with a procession of amuse bouche, dainty morsels, drawing from the sea and the land, presented on wee plinths and stands that make them feel like tiny celebrations. Highlight was an oyster with an exhilarating horseradish foam. Then, the Charles Heidsieck trolley arrives at the table, champagne is poured and the bubbles glow in the early evening sun, framed against the mountains looming in the window in front of us.

We start our tasting menu with Loch Melfort trout and N25 kaluga caviar, sitting on a petal bed of radish with kambu jelly and dashi. Visually impressive and impactful when it comes to taste and texture. Then Loch Fyne langoustine - one of the finest ingredients in the world - prepared in a kaffir lime broth with spring pea and Iberico ham. As good a dish as you will find anywhere in Scotland.

Next, a sliced roast Orkney scallop sits on a bed of hispi cabbage with yuzu koshō, a Japanese paste made from chili peppers, yuzu peel and salt, which is then allowed to ferment. This is a great example of how the best of modern Scottish cooking can be hyperlocal without being parochial. It’s my favourite dish on the menu.

In the points between plates arriving at our table we either gaze out the window at the loch or steal glances at who are at the other tables in what is now a busy and buzzy dining room in full swing. Opening night brings local families, some actors from Glasgow and groups of pals keen to see what Loma is all about. We also have some great conversations with our wine waiter about the family intrigue and story behind the bottles we are being served - and why Chardonnay should be given a rehabilitation.

Our next course is heather honey glazed amazake milk bread which is to be sliced and lathered with whipped duck liver. A simple yet surprisingly impressive combination. Onwards to North Sea turbot, grilled over binchotan Japanese white charcoal with Loire Valley white asparagus, ginjo sake and toasted rice. Again, we have Scottish produce elevated with international flavours and technique. More of this please.

Saddle of Argyll Estate red deer is served with Wye Valley green asparagus, preserved walnut and Glengoyne 18 whiskey sabayon as the sun begins to set across Loch Lomond. Caledonian cuisine in its finest form. The final course was a pretty construction of gariguette strawberries with jasmine tea and vanilla cream. We ordered negronis to conclude.

With Loma, Graeme Cheevers is pushing forward, returning to Cameron House to open Scotland’s best new restaurant. It’s exciting to see, both to have a dining destination of this level at Loch Lomond, relatively close to Glasgow, but also considering the opportunities that the restaurant will provide to the next generation of chefs who will go on to make carve their own niche in hospitality.

Both Scottish chefs who have two Michelin star restaurants started out in Glasgow - Stevie McLaughlin at One Devonshire Gardens, Mark Donald at Stravaigin. With Unalome established in the West End and the team now driving for success at Cameron House, who knows what heights Loma might reach. For now, with a greatest hits menu from the kitchen and an excellent front of house team, they are off to a great start.

Loma by Graeme Cheevers, Cameron House Hotel. Loch Lomond, West Dunbartonshire, Scotland G83 8QZ