There’s a picture of me, my brother and sister in Millport from the early 90s, all wild hair, skint knees and coordinated shorts and tshirts. We’re on a summer day trip to the Isle of Cumbrae, an annual feature of my childhood.
In the background you can see Mapes of Millport, the toy shop on the main street that has been there for over 75 years. It’s where we used to pick up water balloons, jokes or tricks when we were wee and it is still there today. They also still have the cycle hire store that you may remember from growing up - a bike around the island, in a variety of weather conditions, was a rite of passage for Glaswegians on a summer trip to the west coast.
When I took my own kids on a summer day trip I found that Millport still has a nostalgia tinged charm, there are new things to discover and an ice cream reward still awaits when you return to Largs at Nardini’s.
There are few Scottish summer day trips that feel as effortlessly nostalgic as a visit to Millport. Sitting on the island of Great Cumbrae, the town is just a short ferry ride from Largs, making it one of the easiest island escapes from Glasgow and the west coast, although like any island crossing in Scotland these days it’s best to check the CalMac website in advance.
The crossing takes around ten minutes, yet arriving in Millport feels like stepping into a slower, sunnier version of Scotland.
Summer is when the island comes alive. Families spill onto the promenade with ice creams, cyclists set off around the island’s famous coastal loop, and visitors gather on the waterfront to watch boats drift across the Firth of Clyde.
The island’s circular road stretches for roughly ten miles, making it one of Scotland’s favourite cycling destinations. Many visitors hire bikes as soon as they arrive and spend the day exploring quiet bays, rocky coves and sea views towards Arran and the mainland.
One of Millport’s most famous landmarks is Crocodile Rock, a seaside boulder painted to resemble a crocodile. Generations of visitors have climbed onto it for photographs, and it remains one of the island’s most recognisable sights. Nearby beaches provide sheltered spots for paddling and picnics.
5. Millport
A walk along the seafront is part of your visit to Millport, you might even venture onto the beach to build a sandcastle, if you can find a spot around the rocks. Many of the buildings at the front have been given a fresh coat of paint in recent years and it's a charming Scottish scene that I remember well from growing up. | Millport
6. Millport
Village life on the island has had a bit of a boost from new arrivals like Isle of Cumbrae Distillery - pick up a bottle of craft gin - the weaving workshop Look With a View, a yoga studio and Hunter Saville art gallery and studio. | Millport
7. Millport
A bus picks you up in Millport and takes you directly back to the ferry jetty where you can begin your journey back to Largs. The ferry does take cars but at this time of year walk on passengers are going to get across quicker. Look out and you can spot the amusements on the promenade and Magnus the Viking, a statue erected in 2013 on the 750th anniversary of the Battle of Largs when the Scots defeated the Vikings here. | Millport
8. Nardini's
To me, and to generations of Glasgow visitors, Largs means Nardini's Cafe. The art deco gem has been Scotland's most famous ice cream parlour since 1935. Assistant manager Jacqui Carron says there are usually 32 flavours of ice cream available: "People bring their grand-parents who used to come here when they were kids so the whole family share memories over ice cream or sundaes." | Nardini's