For the better part of two decades, the Admiral Bar was one of our favourite Glasgow pubs. When it closed for the final time, its macaroni cheese found a new home.

The Admiral’s exit from the Glasgow hospitality scene was mercicully short-lived. 18 months ago, the Admiral Woods opened on Waterloo Street and while the venue’s location might have changed and the decor might look a little different, the important things have stayed the same. They still claim to serve up the best mac ‘n cheese in Glasgow. A bold claim that we felt we should investigate.

I’m met Siobhan Ross, manager at the Admiral Woods. She tells me that the successor pub from the team has made a concerted effort to improve what it offers, including a new menu of small plates.

“But obviously we’ve kept the things that we’re known for, like the macaroni seems to be something that’s stuck. I don’t know what it is,” Siobhan says. “I think the guys basically just add cheese, cheese and more cheese. I think it’s literally just very cheesy and it seems to have become very popular over the years.”

And with that, the macaroni and cheese is put in front of me. I can tell right away that it is going to be a sure fire winner. It’s the type of classic mac and cheese that has the slightly browned top, encasing the molten cheese below.

There’s also a bonus plate of mozzarella sticks that are about as thick as a toddler’s arm. “I hope you like cheese,” Siobhan says as she leaves me to it.

Some foods have a way of transporting you back to a time and a place - I think that’s basically what I learned from the film Ratatouille anyway. Food is absolutely a portal to nostalgia, and that is exactly what this mac ‘n cheese does to me. I fully understand why people love this so much.

It takes me back to being a young kid and spending Friday afternoons with my gran, out for lunch at one of the many food places in our neighbourhood approved by me or in her house. I have had this exact meal many times and I have been transported right back to sitting across from my granny, fidgeting with whatever bit of tat I have picked up at the market - a Friday tradition for me and granny Rena for a good part of my childhood.

It might not be fancy, or innovative. It might not be filled with artisan lardons, topped with golden sourdough crumbs and made with a different cheese from every continent on Earth. But it is the best mac and cheese in Glasgow because I can’t stop smiling while eating it.