Review: The Auld Alliance of steak and red wine at Maison by Glaschu

A comfortable Glasgow city centre restaurant with a French accent. Maison by Glaschu is a brasserie that combines the Gallic and Gaelic, bringing together Scottish produce with French cooking.

Their Bastille Day steak frites menu brought almost 200 diners into the stylish surroundings of Princes Square for a lunchtime renewing the Auld Alliance.

What's the Story?

A sister restaurant to Glaschu on Royal Exchange Square and Gōst on Bothwell Street, Maison opened in May with a full-on French menu, served in the dining room, bar area and terrace. Chef John Molloy leads the team in the kitchen, he says: “It’s a brasserie version of Glaschu, so a little bit more relaxed, slightly different vibes but the same quality in service and drinks and food. “When the opportunity arose to open a restaurant in Princes Square we jumped at it because it’s a great location, it’s a nice, bright indoor space and the restaurant we’ve got is also cool. 

“It’s French but using really good Scottish produce. That was the jumping off point. Having brasserie food but making it Glasgow.”

On the Menu

For Bastille Day there was a strong Sunday set menu priced at £25 per person. On arrival we were presented with a Champagne cocktail ofVeuve Clicquot, Hennessy, sugar and bitters. Our starter was a cos lettuce and walnut salad in French dressing. Our sharing plate main course was entrecôte steak frites, ribeye steak served with Koffman fries and doused in Cafe de Paris butter. The lunch includes half a bottle of French wine per person, with a choice of red or white.

Style

Maison by Glaschu is that smart city centre restaurant that feels comfortable while retaining a sense of occasion. The main dining room is open and bright, the area that has the bar at one wall and booths along another is more buzzy and has a different personality. Service is friendly with plenty of opportunity to talk about the menu and find out more about the wine and cocktails available.

Verdict

A lot of thought has gone into this menu, that’s clear from the first cocktail. There is 500 miles between the Champagne and Cognac regions in France but they were destined to be united in a glass. The starter is divided and conquered and then it’s on to the main event. The ribeye, served pink, is elevated by the Cafe de Paris butter that we mop up with Koffman fries from a mighty pile that arrives with the steak. Life is too short to tolerate anything other than excellent chips - these were as they should be.

Wine from the Languedoc region and we’re toasting a little bit of France in Glasgow. Beyond the Bastille Day menu there’s extras that you can add without feeling like you are getting carried away. We order the half lobster to arrive on top of the steak (£25), a side of mac & cheese (£6) and a sharp celeriac remoulade with apple and Dijon mustard mayo (£5). Un bon déjeuner.

Weekends in Glasgow need more of these event dining menus, especially on a Sunday. If you sit on the terrace outside Maison then you are part of Princes Square which has always had a very pleasant dining experience. Inside you are separated from the retail side of things and can concentrate on food, drink and good times.

From the a la carte menu, stand-out dishes include starters of French onion soup, baked truffled camembert or lobster bisque; main courses of poulet rôti frites, beef bourguignon, whole plaice meunière and confit duck leg lasagne; before desserts including classic vanilla crème brûlée and a passionfruit and mango soufflé.

Maison by Glaschu 2nd Floor Princes Square, 42 Buchanan Street, Glasgow, G1 3JX