I visited Ireland and was blown away by one captivating city in particular
Experience Ireland at a leisurely pace with a ferry ride to Dublin and a visit to Cork's vibrant English Market.
Good things come to those who wait. It might be the mantra for the popular stout that practically flows through the streets of Dublin, but it has a deeper appeal when it comes to how I’m travelling to Ireland on a bright Thursday morning.
I am aboard Irish Ferries’ Ulysses leaving from Holyhead and heading towards Dublin. Billed as a luxury cruise ferry, it transports passengers twice a day to the Irish capital in around three hours 15 minutes. Probably time enough to finish a chapter of the ferry’s namesake book.
It might be considerably longer than hopping on a flight but, in all honesty, it doesn’t exactly feel like that. The gargantuan ferry has plenty to offer in terms of keeping you entertained during the trip - including a cinema showing the latest releases.
If you want to take your experience even further, you can add Club class at £18 per person where you’ll get complimentary newspapers, snacks, tea and coffee, and free WiFi. The latter of which allowed me to work throughout the Thursday crossing.
With so much on offer, the hours flew by and I was in Ireland before I realised it - where I would visit a city that would surprise me in so many ways.
A short stop off in Dublin at The Ruby Molly, where nightly rates in a Cosy Room start from £123 per night. If you’re staying there, be sure to pick up a guitar from reception and take it back to your room, where you’ll find a Marshall amp. The following morning I left from Heuston Station and headed to Cork.
Ireland is investing heavily in its rail network and there’s few better ways to engross yourself in the idyllic scenery of the country than by utilising it to travel the 161 miles between its two largest cities.

In Cork, I found a city that feels truly interesting. Its residents peg it as the “Rebel City” and wouldn’t thank you for referring to it as Ireland’s city.
Maybe it’s just the summer sun influencing my opinion, but Cork feels like a very continental European city. Many of its streets are either pedestrianised, or at the very least bars, cafes and restaurants are making good use of the city for outdoor drinking and dining.
At the heart of the city is the English Market. This was something that I could 100% get onboard with. Filled to the brim with locally sourced, artisanal produce - Cork produces 65% of Ireland’s artisanal produce - it was an absolutely delightful assault on the senses.
Here, people are socialising over food. There are cafes where people sit having coffee next to the stalls selling fresh fish. Across the way, there’s a butcher preparing a set of lamb chops. It is like walking into another time and another place.
My time in Cork is interrupted by a brief sojourn to nearby Cobh. Jumping on the train once again at Kent Station I had plenty of time to enjoy the views in peace.
Cobh itself was an absolute delight. Thanks to the paint jobs on its houses and buildings, it is an explosion of pure colour, making it eye-catching and, I’d imagine, an Instagrammer’s haven.
The best way to really see the town in its full resplendent colouring, and its surrounding area, is by Rib Boat (A 1.5 hr Rib Boat Tour is from £34 (€40) per person). I had never been on one of these before, but the hour and a half flew in as we made our way along the coast at high speed.
After I’d dried off, there was one final stop for the day. A quick taxi ride to nearby Midleton where I picked up an electric bike (Electric Bike Hire starts from £43 (€50) per day at Cork Bike Hire) and was able to embark on one of the absolute highlights of the entire trip.
Having opened to the public earlier this year, the 23km long Midleton to Youghal greenway makes a safe and scenic environment for cyclists. Following along disused railway tracks it is part of a network of greenways that make for incredible fun to explore.


As a keen cyclist, but one that would much rather avoid road cycling, this was a brilliant way to end the day off - and to make sure I’d earned that pint of Beamish
Back to Cork for a final night in a city, before a day spent in Dublin rounded off the trip - with a trip to the Guinness Storehouse experience a must (A standard Storehouse Experience is from £22 (€26). A Home of Guinness Experience including a guided tour, stoutie experience and pour your own pint offering is from £41 (€48)).
All in, Ireland absolutely blew me away. Cork was a particular highlight and I will not be a stranger to its streets. As a country it is doing fantastic things when it comes to how it will integrate its transport systems, making travel ridiculously easy.
If it gets it right, and it appears to be doing just that, then it will become one of those places where it is a pleasure to take things slow. Good things come to those who wait after all.
A return train from London Euston to Holyhead is from £70 per person. Irish Ferries return trip from Holyhead to Dublin is from £40 per person. Club Class upgrade is from £18 per person.
.jpg?width=96&crop=1:1,smart)