I had a room with a view and enjoyed some of Scotland's best seafood at The Pierhouse hotel

At Port Appin the Scottish scenery puts on an outstanding performance. Take a drive down the secluded lane that leads to the shores of Loch Linnhe and you reach The Pierhouse Hotel, with 12 rooms and an outstanding seafood restaurant. Our berth at the front of the charming white-washed building comes with its own door, if I step out of our room I can watch the Lismore ferry shuttle back and forth from the pier and gaze at views of Mull in the distance, the Morvern mountains and the Ardnamurchan peninsula.

I meet Michael Leathley, head chef at The Pierhouse, as he checks on the lobster pots in the loch. He was recently named Scotland’s Chef of the Year, a testament to his talent, turning this remote kitchen into one of the UK’s leading locations for destination dining.

Leathley has been shaping the menu here for just over five-and-a-half years. Born and raised in North Shields and Newcastle, Michael now lives on the Argyll coast with his wife Ieva, and their son, Jonas. His dishes feature fresh langoustines, mussels and lobsters harvested from Loch Linnhe and Loch Etive, as well as handpicked oysters from the oyster beds of Loch Creran, just 10 minutes from the hotel.

Michael works with a network of local producers and suppliers, including langoustine fisherman Eoghan Black; Caledonian Oyster Company’s Judith Vajk, Emma Rennie Dennis and her brother Mark Rennie from Wee Isle Dairy on the Isle of Gigha. He says that one of the great joys of his work is to showcase the best of Argyll produce: “I’m exceedingly proud of the relationships that I build up with our suppliers and wherever possible, I source all ingredients within a 50-mile radius of the hotel.

“Coming to work at The Pierhouse has allowed me the freedom to explore and experiment with our incredible local larder and there’s so much of it right on my doorstep. I’d never really felt connected to the food in the same way as I do in Port Appin.”

Michael’s grandfather was an in-shore fisherman, which led to an early appreciation of seafood. He describes his cooking style as “unpretentious – a little classic and a little modern”. The hotel restaurant has three AA silver stars, two AA rosettes and is one of only three Argyll restaurants featured in the Michelin Guide for Great Britain and Ireland 2025.

The compact dining room is bathed in golden light as we sit down for dinner. Your meal at The Pierhouse comes with a beguiling view across to the isle of Lismore, the hills and loch change character as the night draws in. The dishes are more than capable of competing for attention.

We start with a wee crab cake, a recent addition to the menu. Then those Loch Creran oysters that should be enjoyed with a swipe of mignonette, a squeeze of lemon and with a spot of tabasco sauce. One of the great joys in life.

Hand dived scallops baked in the shell, topped with puff pastry and roe Jacqueline jus, is among Michael’s signature dishes and makes good use of one of Scotland’s most outstanding ingredients. See also the grilled Loch Linnhe creel caught langoustines, an utter delight.

Grilled lobster Thermidor with Isle of Mull cheddar brings the meal to a crescendo. If there’s one thing that can compete with Scottish seafood, it’s Highland beef, and the ribeye steak from Lochaber Larder, served with whisky bordelaise sauce and potatoes pavé is a scene-stealing addition to the summer menu.

Before returning to our cosy, cottage-like accommodation, there’s an opportunity to sit outside and catch the last of the sunset while marvelling at our surroundings. Port Appin is one of Scotland’s great hidden gems.

The Pierhouse, Port Appin, Appin PA38 4DE